Sometimes the countries I visit take me by surprise. They often blow my low expectations out of the water, or I might find them a little bit overrated. When it came to the city of Edinburgh, however, I knew it would be a match made in heaven.
Edinburgh’s ancient history definitely enticed me, with pictures of the medieval castle and royal palace luring me to Scotland. I was also excited to experience Edinburgh’s renowned cultural and literature scene.
But in case that wasn’t enough, the entire city is built around an inactive volcano! There are demanding hikes and sprawling wildlife literally in the city centre. I barely knew where to start.
This 3-day itinerary visits my top ten Edinburgh highlights, from museums to palaces to wilderness.
The Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is a series of streets that stretches through Edinburgh’s Old Town. Almost exactly a mile long, it joins Edinburgh Castle at one end with Holyrood Palace at the other.
Edinburgh is a really old city, and I found this most obvious when walking through the historic buildings lining the Royal Mile. Many sites important to Edinburgh and Scotland are dotted along this stretch. Among them are the Scottish Parliament Building, St Giles’ Cathedral and Edinburgh’s High Court.
Add the resident street artists and historic houses, and the Royal Mile makes for a stroll not to be missed.
Arthur’s Seat & Holyrood Park
Climbing to Arthur’s Seat was the absolute highlight of my stay in Edinburgh. Holyrood Park is one of three volcanic remnants in Edinburgh, and Arthur’s Seat is its highest point.
Be warned: though it may seem like a park in the middle of a city, this hike is not as easy as it appears. Luckily, I learnt my lesson after climbing Table Mountain and did my research as to which path was best.
I went for the shortest and steepest route, and was treated to amazing views over Salisbury Crags and the rest of the park. The summit was blustery and cold, but the feeling of accomplishment as I gazed out across the city was well worth it.
Read more about what to get up to in Holyrood Park: A Day in Holyrood Park, Edinburgh
Holyrood Palace & Abbey
Built in the 16th century, the Palace of Holyroodhouse remains the seat of Scotland’s royal family. Queen Elizabeth II and her family still visit every year, just like monarchs (including Victoria and Albert, Charles I and Mary, Queen of Scots) did before them.
My highlights include: Mary, Queen of Scots’ chambers, the state apartments, and the Great Gallery.
Holyrood Abbey adjoins Holyrood Palace. Though it was built in the 12th century and therefore stood before the palace did, over time it’s gradually fallen into ruins. Now all that remains is the skeleton of the former abbey.
However, some of the arched windows and giant pillars have managed to endure. It’s thus easy to see that it was once an impressive religious building, rivalling that of Holyrood Palace itself.
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle perches on Castle Hill, the city’s second volcanic remnant. The castle seems to blend into the rock, and this austere sight can be seen from most places throughout the city. The best views are from Grassmarket, along Princes Street, and the roof of the National Museum of Scotland.
The entire castle complex is way bigger than I thought it would be. Even the esplanade is far grander than I had imagined, allowing you to take in the castle as you begin the long approach.
I managed to spend a whole morning exploring the castle and its ties with Scottish history. My highlights include: the room where James VI & I was born, the crown jewels of Scotland, and the One O’clock Gun.
St Giles’ Cathedral
Also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, St Giles’ Cathedral is a major site of religion in Scotland. Founded in the 12th century, it has since become the centre of Church of Scotland activity.
With its baroque architecture and crown-shaped steeple, St Giles’ is easy to spot in pride of place along the Royal Mile. The cathedral also houses the Thistle Chapel, an elaborate and ornate chapel dedicated to Scotland’s most important Order of Chivalry.
Not only is St Giles’ integral to religion in Scotland, it’s free to enter too, so definitely worth a visit.
Calton Hill
Calton Hill is the third of Edinburgh’s three volcanic remnants. From afar it is recognisable by its massive acropolis looming on the skyline. Based on that of Athens, construction on the landmark halted in 1822. Now the acropolis remains famously unfinished.
Getting to the top of Calton Hill is much easier than climbing to Arthur’s Seat, only involving 40 or so steps. I was rewarded for this little climb by a panoramic view of Edinburgh, complete with the hills of Holyrood Park. The hill itself is no Arthur’s Seat, but the views are pleasant and the acropolis is fun to explore.
Dean Village
Once a milling hamlet, Dean Village is now a little haven in the northwest of Edinburgh. With beautiful, old mill buildings and the Water of Leith running through, the village makes for a peaceful scene.
I nearly didn’t go because I’d heard rumours it was miles out of the city. Fortunately it turns out that it’s less than 2km from Edinburgh station, and so worth the visit!
Dean Village marks a stop on the Water of Leith Walkway. While I didn’t hike all the way to Leith, I did walk the section that meanders from Dean Village to Stonebridge. The path along the river was so overgrown that it easily muffled the sounds of the city around it.
Scott Monument
I passed Scott Monument, admiring it from the ground, multiple times before I realised what it was. Built in 1832, the gothic tower is a monument to Sir Walter Scott, the famous Scottish writer. And, at 200 feet high, it’s supposedly the tallest monument dedicated to a writer in the world.
The tower consists of four floors. On the first, there is a little museum about Scott’s life and work, and the monument. The other three are viewpoints over the city. Though the spiral staircases got tighter and tighter as I climbed, it was worth it for the view from the top of the monument. I hung out at the top for a long time, being buffeted by the wind and taking in the view across Edinburgh.
Read more about bookish attractions to visit in Edinburgh: A Book-Lover’s Guide to Edinburgh
Greyfriars Kirkyard
My main reason for visiting this cemetery was to see Rowling’s inspiration for Tom Riddle’s grave, but it turns out there’s way more to this churchyard. It’s rumoured to be one of the most haunted graveyards in the world! Luckily (or disappointingly?) I encountered no supernatural occurrences during my visit.
Greyfriars Kirkyard is also famous for Greyfriars Bobby. Apparently when this little dog’s owner died in 1858, Bobby sat by his grave for the next fourteen years (!!) to protect him even in the afterlife. The people of Edinburgh actually built a makeshift kennel next to the grave so he could live there in peace. Now that’s dedication. There’s a statue outside the cemetery that pays homage to the little dog.
National Museum of Scotland
I will never say no to a free museum. The National Museum of Scotland seems to encompass everything. It combines natural history with interactive science, and has an amazing grand gallery to boot.
I was most interested in the Scottish history exhibits, which take up eight floors in the museum’s right wing. Did you know that Scotland used to be on the equator, and that it was once a separate island from England? I also discovered that Scotland had a King James VIII while it was supposedly sharing a monarchy with England.
I was under the impression I was fairly clued in about Scotland’s past. Turns out I was pretty wrong!
Edinburgh is an amazing city, and whether you love culture, comedy or the outdoors, there’s definitely something for everyone here. I enjoyed my short but sweet stay so much.
Using this itinerary, I hope you manage to fall as much in love with Edinburgh as I did!
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