A Guide to Jerusalem
Jerusalem is honestly a city like no other I’ve ever experienced. What other city is so integral to three major religions? Where else can you step between such visibly different and coexisting communities?
In fact, Jerusalem is one of my favourite cities that I’ve ever visited. As an openminded atheist (or realistic agnostic perhaps?), I was blown away by the religious and historical significance of the city.
Despite being centuries old, the city somehow felt young. Perhaps it was the youthful Israeli soldiers who populated every food stall and street corner, laughing and joking with each other. Or perhaps it was the modern transport system that winds past the ancient Old City, effortlessly combining old and new.
Not only are food and transport very cheap, but the majority of major landmarks are free (my favourite word!). The vegetarian and vegan food scene is great… as long as you like hummus. It is the Middle East, after all!
This guide focuses on Jerusalem’s historical highlights, bridging two nations, three major religions and thousands of years.
Disclosure: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links and, at no extra cost to you, I receive a small commission if you make a purchase via these links. For more information, visit my disclosure page.
Is Jerusalem safe?
I’m not going to pretend I’m an expert on Jerusalem’s safety, Islam or Judaism (or Christianity, come to that!). Jerusalem is, as it has been for centuries, incredibly symbolic to so many people. This is one of the reasons that it’s such an amazing city to visit.
Nevertheless, the city’s significance is also the cause of a lot of religious tension and, at times, violence. Despite being neither visibly Muslim or Jewish, I was prepared to tiptoe around Jerusalem avoiding any discussion of religion or the Israel / Palestine debate.
However, everyone I spoke to about it, be they Israeli, Jewish, Palestinian or Jordanian, was very open about their opinions. The majority of them were incredibly blasé about the religious tension in Jerusalem.
There are a lot of rules in place, some unspoken, that protect the city’s religious harmony. The most important thing is to remain respectful of every religion’s space, as I hope that anyone would do anywhere!
As a white woman wandering both the Jewish streets and the Muslim streets alone, I never felt unsafe. In fact, I felt more at ease than I have done in cities such as Barcelona or Rome! Just make sure to do some unbiased research into the safety situation before visiting.
How long to stay in Jerusalem
I spent two full days in Jerusalem. I wish I could have stayed longer, because there is so much more to see. As I’ve said, it’s one of my favourite cities in the world!
This guide is easily doable as a two-day itinerary. For a one-day itinerary, I recommend focusing on the religious highlights in the Old City and the Mount of Olives, perhaps joining a walking tour to ensure that you make the most of your day. If you have longer than two days, I’ve included a list of additional sites to visit.
What to see & do in Jerusalem
The Old City
Jerusalem’s Old City is split into four sections: the Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian Quarters. These carefully divided areas reflect the underlying tension that has been present within Jerusalem for generations.
The majority of Jerusalem’s most significant sites are located within the Old City. It’s less than a square kilometre in size, meaning that it’s easy to explore the winding, cobbled alleyways on foot. Beware, I got lost multiple times!
The Old City itself is also a historic landmark. Things to see in the Old City infrastructure:
- the Ramparts Walk
- Damascus Gate
- the Gate of Mercy AKA the Golden Gate
- Jaffa Gate
- street signs in three languages: Hebrew, Arabic and English
Western Wall
I recommend making the Western Wall your first stop in Jerusalem’s Old City. It is one of the most religious sites in Judaism. The wall originally belonged to the Second Jewish Temple, which was destroyed by the Romans. What remains is an ancient wall that is visited by millions of people every year.
The Western Wall is a site of prayer. We visited so early that children were there in their school uniforms, paying a quick visit to the wall to pray before school. Many visitors also write their prayers on pieces of paper that they slip into cracks in the ancient and symbolic wall.
Opening hours: open 24/7
Cost: free
Dress code: Chest and shoulders covered. Paper kippahs are available at the entrance to the men’s section.
Restrictions: There’s a quick security check at the entrance. I had no problems with my 25l rucksack, but tripods aren’t allowed. The wall is split into two different sections for men and women.
Temple Mount
From the Western Wall, it’s just a short walk up to Temple Mount. Due to the narrow opening hours (see below), I recommend prioritising a visit to Temple Mount as early in the day as possible.
Incredibly, Temple Mount is one of the most important religious sites in Christianity, Islam and Judaism. I also learnt while visiting (ignorant agnostic that I am) that it’s such an incredibly holy site in Judaism that it’s actually forbidden for anyone Jewish to enter the compound. (Although to be honest I don’t know whether this is a Jewish rule or an Islamic rule…)
The Dome of the Rock is easily the most impressive and recognisable building at Temple Mount. It’s golden dome and intricate sea of blue and green tiles are a stark contrast with the rest of the dusty, ancient stone that comprises most of Jerusalem’s Old City. While non-Muslims cannot enter the Dome of the Rock, it is permitted to enter the nearby Al-Aqsa Mosque and explore the rest of the iconic compound.
Opening hours: open Sunday to Thursday; 8.30–11.30 a.m. and 1.30–2.30 p.m. (summer); 7.30–10.30 a.m. and 12.30–1.30 p.m. (winter). Closed on Fridays and Saturdays. See up-to-date opening hours here.
Cost: free
Dress code: knees and shoulders covered. I recommend wearing something loose and ankle length just to be safe; my travel buddy got called out for wearing a midi skirt.
Restrictions: There’s a security check at the entrance, and I had no problems with my 25l rucksack. Bring your passport in order to enter. Tripods and religious icons (e.g., crucifixes and holy books) are forbidden. I’ve also heard that women and men aren’t supposed to touch whilst in Temple Mount’s grounds, even for photos together.
Via Dolorosa
If you exit Temple Mount from the north-west corner, you’ll soon arrive at Via Dolorosa, or “The Way of Sorrow”. This long street winds begins in the Muslim Quarter and winds through the Old City to the Christian Quarter.
Via Dolorosa is known as the path that Jesus walked, carrying his cross, on the way to his crucifixion. For this reason, it’s a popular pilgrimage site. As I walked, I was surrounded by a procession of tourists who were singing and carrying crosses of their own. I’m not religious, and even I couldn’t believe that I was walking the same path as Jesus!
There are 14 stops on Via Dolorosa, known as “the stations of the cross”. They are well-marked and detail Jesus’ journey with the cross through the streets of Jerusalem. I recommend backtracking to start at Lion Gate and walking the whole route, which is just over half a mile long.
Opening hours: Via Dolorosa is open 24/7, but each location has a differing opening time.
Cost: To walk along Via Dolorosa is free. The majority of the religious sites are easily visible from the street.
Dress code: knees and shoulders covered to enter any of the religious sites
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The final stop on Via Dolorosa is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Jesus was buried after his crucifixion. It’s one of the holiest sites within the Christian religion, and various denominations of Christianity have fought for ownership of the church for centuries.
A symbol of this tension is the immovable ladder outside the church in front of the second storey window. No one knows who put it there, so nobody dares to move it for fear of aggravating anyone. As a result, it’s been there for 300 years!
Like the rest of Via Dolorosa, the church was very busy. There was a long queue to enter and more queues inside. Again, I’m not religious, but it was worth the queue to put my hand on Jesus’ grave… Such a transcendent experience.
Opening hours: 5 a.m.–9 p.m., except Sundays, which close at 8 p.m. (summer); 4 a.m.–7 p.m. (winter)
Cost: free
Dress code: shoulders and knees covered
Armenian Quarter
The Armenian Quarter is the smallest of the four areas that make up Jerusalem’s Old City. It seems to be overlooked a lot by tourists, and it was noticeably quieter here than in the rest of the city.
The Armenian Quarter is well-known for its painted pottery and tiles. By chance, we stumbled into Jerusalem Pottery Hagop Karakashian (which is actually in the Christian Quarter). The owners’ teenaged daughter showed us around the workshop, telling us about the family’s business. I really recommend a visit to learn more about the role of this Armenian craft in Jerusalem… and maybe to pick up some souvenirs!
The Mount of Olives
The Mount of Olives overlooks Jerusalem’s Old City. Like the Old City, the hill is the location of several sites that are significant to multiple religions.
From the top, the golden dome of Temple Mount shines in the distance through the branches of olive trees. On the path down towards the Old City are the following significant locations:
- Pater Noster Church, where Jesus taught his disciples
- the Tomb of the Prophets
- the Chapel of the Ascension, supposedly the location where Jesus ascended to heaven
- the Jewish cemetery, which dates back 3000 years
- the Catholic Church of Dominus Flevit
- the gold orbs of the Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene
- the Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed before his death
- the Church of All Nations
- the tomb of the Virgin Mary
Opening hours: The Mount of Olives viewpoint is open 24/7 but each location has a differing opening time. See up-to-date opening hours here.
Cost: The Mount of Olives viewpoint is free. The majority of the religious sites are easily visible from the outside and most are also free to enter. See up-to-date prices here.
Dress code: knees and shoulders covered to enter any of the religious sites
Mahane Yehuda Market
Also known as the Shuk, Mahane Yehuda is a market in central Jerusalem that is frequented by both locals and tourists. The market is situated on Jaffa Street, which leads from Jerusalem’s Old City right to the other side of town.
The largest market in Jerusalem, Mahane Yehuda has everything from sit-down restaurants to bars to street stalls. There are even discount cards or food tour apps you can use to sample the market’s best food and drink.
If you want to experience the market at its busiest, I recommend visiting on a Friday. The Shuk was packed to the brim with people preparing for Shabbat, and I was hustled along with the crowds buying bread and other essentials. For a more peaceful foodie experience, visit at any other time!
Opening hours: open from 8 a.m.–7 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and from 8 a.m.–3 p.m. on Fridays. Some cafés and restaurants may also be open on Saturday evenings. Closed for the Sabbath.
Mea Shearim
Just a few hundred metres north of busy Jaffa Street is the neighbourhood of Mea Shearim. One of the oldest Jewish neighbourhoods in Jerusalem, it is home to a community of very orthodox Jews. Wandering through the area is an incredible cultural experience.
However, I hesitated to include Mea Shearim in this guide because I’m very aware that it’s a neighbourhood, not a tourist attraction. The community is an insular one, and they justifiably expect all visitors to abide by their rules of modesty. To walk through the streets wearing inappropriate clothes or in large groups of tourists would be seen as incredibly disrespectful. For context, I wore looser and longer clothing here than I did when visiting Temple Mount.
I definitely recommend a wander around Mea Shearim. I visited on a Friday afternoon, and the streets were packed with people stocking up on food for Shabbat. Just remember if you visit to be respectful of their culture.
Dress code: wear loose and long clothing
Restrictions: Be prepared to follow Shabbat rules if you visit between Friday and Saturday evenings. For example, definitely no driving or using phones.
If you have more time in Jerusalem
Of course, there’s no way that anyone can witness Jerusalem’s thousands of years of history in only two days. If you’re lucky enough to be spending more than a couple of days in Jerusalem… First of all, I am very jealous! Secondly, here are some additional, significant sites that are on my list for when I return to Jerusalem:
- the Church of the Redeemer (Christian Quarter)
- birthplace of the Virgin Mary (Christian Quarter)
- site of the Last Supper (Christian Quarter)
- Austrian Hospice (Muslim Quarter)
- Hurva Synagogue (Jewish Quarter)
- Western Wall tunnels (Jewish Quarter)
- St James Cathedral Church (Armenian Quarter)
- the Tower of David Museum (Armenian Quarter)
- the Israel Museum (west central Jerusalem)
Where to eat in Jerusalem
The Old City
The winding streets of the Old City are packed with cafés, restaurants and stalls selling pretty much every Middle Eastern food you can imagine and lots that you can’t. I recommend trying knafeh and malawach and picking up a freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.
Austrian Hospice
The guesthouse is a cool respite from the busy streets of the Old City. In particular, the view from the roof is incredible. Even locals have been known to visit the hospice’s café and snack on its typical Austrian treats.
Mahane Yehuda Market
The atmosphere here is wild! We went at midday on a Friday and it was packed with people stocking up for the Sabbath. We bought some little snacks from one of the stalls and headed back into the street for a little picnic.
Passover Falafel AKA פסגח הפלאפל
I genuinely lived off their stuff while in Jerusalem! It’s west of the Old City, nearer to where all the hostels are in the Jewish side of the city. They do the best pitta, salad and falafel.
How to get to Jerusalem
Reaching Jerusalem from other parts of Israel (e.g., Tel Aviv or Eilat) is quick and cheap by bus. If your bus enters Palestine (the West Bank) at all, which is likely, you will probably need to show your passport and visa.
I visited Jerusalem from Jordan, which was much easier than most people told me it would be! Although, to be fair, I am neither Jewish nor Muslim.
There are three border crossings from Jordan to Israel / Palestine. I crossed at Allenby Bridge, which is the most convenient when heading from Amman, Jordan’s capital, to Jerusalem. I’m in the process of writing a whole post dedicated to this return border crossing, so watch this space.
How to get around Jerusalem
Jerusalem isn’t a big city, and it’s easy to get around by walking. In the Old City especially this is essential, as most of the winding streets are too small for cars or buses to drive through.
However, be aware that, outside of the Old City, Jerusalem is very hilly! The one time I did hop on a bus was to reach the Mount of Olives, which is at the top of a steep hill. It only cost 5 NIS (about £1.20), so it was definitely worth it to avoid the climb in the heat.
In general, the city has fairly good public transport links if you’d rather not walk. Bear in mind that any Jewish-run transport companies will be completely inoperative from Friday evening until Saturday evening. It’s possible to use the Muslim-run transport companies, or be prepared to walk or cycle.
Where to stay in Jerusalem
There are a lot of hotels and hostels in Jerusalem’s Old City. These are atmospheric, but bear in mind that the buildings are likely to be about 2000 years old! It’s thus likely that you’ll have to trade the quality of facilities for the atmosphere.
I opted for a hostel further in the Jewish side of the city: The Stay Inn. Honestly, it was one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in and I highly recommend it! Alternatively, see all accommodation in Jerusalem.
The Stay Inn
Pros:
- WiFi reaches the rooms
- modern facilities
- bunks have a curtain for privacy
- free drinking water and use of washing machines
Cons:
- larger dorms are dingier and less secluded than my six-person dorm
- pricier than some hostels in the Old City (but worth every penny in my opinion!)
Jerusalem truly is such a unique place. The religious significance, the coexisting cultures and the historical magnitude of the city made it one of my favourites that I’ve ever visited. Regardless of your religious beliefs or political stance, I highly recommend that everyone add Jerusalem to their wanderlust list.
Have you ever been to Jerusalem? Or has this guide made excited to visit? Let me know in the comments below!
Disclosure: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links and, at no extra cost to you, I receive a small commission if you make a purchase via these links. For more information, visit my disclosure page.
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2 Comments
Nicola Lavin · 08/16/2020 at 6:54 PM
Wow! I had never really thought of Jerusalem before but your photos are so beautiful and so many great things to consider about a Jerusalem trip.
Daisy · 08/22/2020 at 3:43 PM
Thanks Nicola! Honestly, I loved Jerusalem so much. I hope you get a chance to visit!