Rome: the Eternal City; once the capital of the world. The city is brimming with grand architecture, iconic sites and thousands of years of ancient history. I found myself visiting for three days in August, the hottest, busiest, most expensive time to go.
Knowing that both a short stay and the midday heat limited our sightseeing time, I composed three sunrise walking tours that I encouraged (forced) my friends to join me on.
Rome was at it’s most beautiful in the soft pink light of the early morning sun. It was an added bonus that waking this early allowed us to experience Rome before the majority of the crowds. From ancient ruins to striking piazzas, these three DIY walking tours visit Rome’s highlights at sunrise, the most beautiful hour.
Colosseum
If there’s any iconic symbol of Rome, it’s the Colosseum. I knew this was going to be the first stop on my first sunrise walk of Rome. Though we arrived before 6.30 a.m., I regret not getting up earlier, as there were some beautiful clouds before sunrise that would have made for an amazing photo. My wonder was exacerbated by a sense of privacy, as there was no one else around apart from a few other bloggers and photographers. We stayed for nearly an hour, watching the sun bathe the Colosseum in golden light.
Piazza del Campidoglio
We climbed up Capitoline Hill—one of the seven hills of Rome—from the Colosseum, pausing at a lookout point over the Roman Forum on the way. The Piazza was absolutely deserted and still in shadow when we arrived, panting from the climb, around 7.30 a.m. The dark stones of the Piazza del Campidoglio made it seem quite striking and austere, with the square itself completely deserted but dominated by large statues and grand buildings on every side. It was a taste of the grander, more modern side of Rome, yet still interspersed with statues depicting heroes from its ancient past.
Altare della Patria
As the sun rose higher, we wandered down the steps of Capitoline Hill and circled back round to the Altare della Patria. This building cannot be missed: the dark horses and chariots on its roof peek out from behind the surrounding buildings and are even visible from within the Roman Forum. It was still closed this early in the morning, with long, metal gates pulled across its exterior. Despite this, the morning sun was blinding on the white stone. We sat down in the shade opposite and waited for our final stops of the morning to open.
The Roman Forum and Palatine Hill
The Forum and Palatine Hill make up two sections of one large site of ruins. Having already seen the size and spaciousness of the Forum from the lookout point on the side of Capitoline Hill, we decided to start there. We slowly weaved through the ruins of Ancient Rome and up Palatine Hill. Eventually we were overlooking the Colosseum, which by now was encircled by crowds.
Trevi Fountain
Sunrise was at 6.15 a.m., and though we arrived around 6.30 a.m. the fountain was already scattered with people. Our timing was perfect, as the sun was emerging onto the crest at the top of the fountain. However, it was not yet harsh enough to throw shadows over the rest of the fountain’s white façade.
So far I had recognised a ubiquitous police presence at Rome’s major tourist sites, even at sunrise. The police here were definitely the most engaged. I suppose it was because the fountain was noticeably more busy and renowned for pickpockets, but hilariously they also frequently whistled shrilly at anyone posing too precariously on the side of the fountain. When we left at 7.30 a.m. there were close to 100 people surrounding the fountain, with more arriving every minute.
The Pantheon
There were just a few people scattered throughout the square when we arrived just after 7.30 a.m. A local couple were lounging on the Pantheon Fountain with their dog, and café owners on the outskirts of the square were beginning to put out chairs. Arriving this early meant we could play amongst the massive pillars that support the Pantheon’s portico. Though it didn’t open until 8.30 a.m., the officials ushered us off the pillars just before 8 a.m. to set up the barricades for the queue. We decided to make the most of our sunrise in Rome and return to see the inside of the Pantheon when the sun was higher in the sky.
Piazza Navona
Built to mirror the open space of the ancient stadium it replaced, Piazza Navona seems still to be a theatrical stage in many ways when visited at night. At sunrise, the piazza was—unsurprisingly—much quieter, and it seemed weird without street performers competing for audiences and restaurants competing for customers. That said, it was much easier to admire the piazza’s three ornate fountains. Fontana del Moro and the Fountain of Neptune stand at either end, with the Fountain of the Four Rivers in the piazza’s centre.
Knights of Malta keyhole
This one is slightly further out of Rome’s city centre, so we stretched the definition of “walking tour” and got the metro most of the way instead. It was so worth it. The Knights of Malta are a chivalric order dating back 1000 years to the time of the crusades, but the gate to their headquarters is impressive in its own right. It’s located on Aventine Hill, another of the seven hills of Rome. We walked past some beautiful walled gardens on our way, pausing at every keyhole to check if it was the one we were looking for.
Eventually I put my eye to the right one. Inside was a walled garden, with a long arch of orange-flowered hedges leading away from the large door. In the distance, framed by the hedges, was the dome of St Peter’s Basilica, soaked in the early morning sunlight. No one knows if it’s a coincidence or not that the keyhole looks directly on the basilica, but I can’t think of a better symbol of unattainable perfection than this.
Non-Catholic Cemetery
I’ve seen this called the Protestant Cemetery, the Non-Catholic Cemetery, and the Foreigners Cemetery. I suppose in 18th-century Rome they are one and the same! I was travelling with two of my fellow English Literature graduate friends, and our purpose of visiting the graveyard, which is very near the Knights of Malta keyhole, was to visit Keats and P.B. Shelley’s gravestones. However, on arriving we discovered that the cemetery was closed for the duration of our stay for Ferragosto, an Italian public holiday—didn’t see that one coming! Luckily, we were able to see Keats’s unnamed grave through a tiny gap in the cemetery wall, which sated our literary curiosity.
Spanish Steps
These stone steps lead from the Piazza di Spagna up to Trinità dei Monti, and are another icon of Rome. By the time we visited in August the summer’s flower decorations had been removed, but this made the 135 (ish) stark steps seem all the more dramatic. The sun peeked out from behind the Trinità dei Monti, slowly dousing the steps in sunlight from left to right like a blind being pulled across the sky. The steps are wide enough that it was easy enough to find a deserted spot to take pictures. After doing so, we lounged on the shady side before making our way along the river to the Vatican City.
River Tiber: Ponte Umberto I, Castel Sant’Angelo & the Bridge of Angels
Walking along Rome’s River Tiber, we reached Ponte Umberto I. From the banks of the river itself, we got a great view of the bridge with the dome of St Peter’s Basilica framed by branches. The next bridge we reached was Ponte Sant’Angelo, or the Bridge of Angels, which also crosses the River Tiber. The bridge is flanked by ten sculptures of angels, as the name suggests, who are all holding something that represents the suffering of Christ. Though the statues are less than 400 years old, the Ancient Romans built the bridge itself in 134 AD. It leads across from Rome’s city centre to the daunting Castel Sant’Angelo, and makes for an ideal photo opportunity.
St. Peter’s Square & Basilica
Eventually we arrived at the Vatican City, an enclave of Rome. The morning sun was rising behind us as we gazed up at St Peter’s Basilica. I admit I thought ascending the dome was a bit overrated, but our view of the square and basilica from the ground was spectacular. The pale pink sunlight shone on each of the saints that decorate the oval colonnades, illuminating them as they gazed down on the visitors. I can’t imagine what it must be like to be Catholic or even Christian and visit where it all originated.
Setting my alarm for 4.45 a.m. every morning was brutal, but worth it. It was the perfect way to explore Rome’s ancient history, medieval glamour and contemporary charm. I’m completely sold on sunrise sightseeing: early morning Rome felt like my own citywide playground. We skipped the queues and the heat, and had the rest of the day to relax with a glass of Italian wine in our hands. I can’t think of a better way to experience the Eternal City of Rome.
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