I have to admit that I booked my trip to Warsaw just because it was cheap! However, upon doing some pre-trip research, I realised just how much history and culture there was to explore in Poland’s capital.
A massive 85% of Warsaw was destroyed throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. As a result, many of Warsaw’s most emblematic Old Town buildings are actually replicas, built to resemble the original city. For this reason, Warsaw is known as the Phoenix City: it has risen up from the ashes.
On the other side of the river is Praga. Only once I understood the history behind this supposedly “rougher” side of the Vistula River did Warsaw’s history make sense.
Three days is the perfect amount of time to get to know both sides of the river. Using this itinerary, delve into Warsaw’s turbulent past and explore the Phoenix City.
I spent my first day in Warsaw exploring its historic centre. This section is concentrated on the west bank of the Vistula River and consists of the Old Town and the New Town. There is easily enough in this district to spend a whole day exploring.
Warsaw New Town is much less busy than the Old Town, and still has a lot to appreciate. I started my day exploring the historic centre in the New Town Square, knowing wandering through the New Town would build up nicely to the Old Town.
Amongst the buildings to look out for in the New Town are St Casimir’s Church, Sapieha Palace, Raczynski Palace and the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary. I wandered behind the latter and found myself high on the bank of the Vistula, with views over to Praga and Warsaw’s right embankment.
Walking from here to the Old Town, I passed Marie Curie’s house and museum. Apart from a plaque on the wall, it was surprisingly nondescript. In contrast, many of the other New Town houses are decorated with wall art, either in the form of paint or mosaic.
Finally, I proceeded through the red-brick Barbican gates as I entered the adjoining Old Town.
Warsaw’s iconic colourful houses saturate the Old Town, but I think Old Town Market Square is where they are best admired. Tall, skinny and covered with rows of windows, they reminded me of a brighter, pastel version of Amsterdam’s “gingerbread”-like houses.
The colourful houses of Market Square not only house the Museum of Warsaw, but they also surround the statue of a mermaid. Legend has it a trapped mermaid was once freed by Warsovian fishermen and now, holding a sword and shield, she is the emblem of Warsaw.
Continuing through the Old Town, I got the feeling I was on a film set (. . . and I would know!). Having been reconstructed after the devastation of WWII, the buildings emanated a strange combination of aged yet new. I guess Warsaw Old Town isn’t very old at all!
Before leaving the winding Old Town streets, I came across the Warsaw Wishing Bell, raised on a plinth with some Romeo and Juliet-like folklore attached. After circling the bell whilst thinking of my wish (I’ll never tell), I continued through the Old Town to Castle Square.
The pink-orange walls of Warsaw’s Royal Castle dominate one whole side of Castle Square. Like much of the Old Town, the Royal Castle was only rebuilt as recently as 1980.
I think the castle’s interior reflects its modernity. Though the ornate ceilings and gilded furniture are reconstructions, it could easily be a fancy hotel instead of a supposedly centuries-old castle. Not that I’m complaining—it’s much more exciting to see the castle as it would have been when it was brand new the first time round!
The rest of the royal complex is more convincingly old. I think the adjoining Copper-Roof Palace and the massive gardens that lead to the Vistula are beautiful, and realistically aged. There is even ancient graffiti in the dungeons that somehow managed to survive the war!
St. Anne’s Church is on the outskirts of the Old Town. Though both the interior and exterior are very grand, the most exciting part is the church’s observation tower, which overlooks Castle Square.
Unlike a lot of old church towers I’ve climbed, the climb was surprisingly easy. There was no awkwardly squashing into tight corners to squeeze past people on the steps!
I reached the balcony an hour before sunset, as the bell was tolling 8 p.m. The sun was low in the sky behind the New Town, and I had a great view into Castle Square as dusk arrived. Fire performers lit their flames and crowds began to gather around them. The shadow of Zygmunt’s Column lengthened across the square. The pink-orange walls of the Royal Castle faded into dull terracotta.
My second day in Warsaw saw me heading slightly further out of the city to Wilanów Palace. Another of Warsaw’s royal residences, I thought Wilanów Palace was even more impressive than the Royal Castle. Continuing the cultural theme, I then focused on one of Poland’s most famous musicians, before finishing the day with another great sunset viewpoint.
Unlike much of Warsaw, Wilanów Palace managed to survive WWII. It must be one of the only places I visited in Warsaw that’s not a (albeit convincing) replica. My guess would be it survived because it’s a little outside the city centre. It sits at the very end of Warsaw’s Royal Route, which starts with the Royal Castle and trails south to Wilanów.
The palace’s wide, yellow façade (my favourite colour by the way, so maybe I’m biased!) is very striking. I spent at least half an hour admiring every inch of it from the front courtyard, circling the neat, oval lawn multiple times. The interior is equally fancy, with lots of white marble contributing to a light and airy décor.
Unfortunately, the gardens were closed due to high winds when I visited. However, I did manage to steal a peek through the gauze curtains as I meandered round the house. I glimpsed neat hedges and trees being buffeted—true to the word—by strong winds from every direction.
Though he eventually became a French citizen, Chopin was raised in Warsaw. A lot of his pieces are Nationalist or based on Polish folk music, so it’s easy to see why the museum dedicated to him is in the Polish capital.
Having studied Chopin multiple times, I knew I had to pay the museum a visit. To my delight, it’s a really interactive experience; I get bored very easily so I love hands-on stuff. The best feature by far was the little glass listening booths. They are soundproof and intricately decorated, and you can sit and listen to Chopin’s work, undisturbed.
The weather outside was so hot and humid that I spent at least an hour in the calm and cooling museum, listening to excerpts from Chopin’s early days. It was perfect for travelling introverts like myself that need a break from the bustle of a new city.
Strolling from the Chopin Museum down to the river, I arrived at the Warsaw University Library. The sides of the building are covered in plants, hinting at the library’s secret. Continuing through the library, and feeling like a bit of a fraud, I emerged the other side in one of Warsaw’s hidden gems.
The library roof harbours a two-storey garden. A maze of paths wind up and across the roof, with views out over Warsaw and the Vistula. From this vantage point, I watched the sun set over the city as the heat of the day began to dissipate.
Just when I thought I’d seen all the nooks the rooftop garden had to offer, I’d come across another hidden passage. Even despite the exploring I did, when I reluctantly left I think there were still more undiscovered paths I hadn’t unearthed. What an apt analogy for travel in general!
On my last full day in Warsaw, I headed to the massive Łazienki Park via the Palace of Science & Culture. I love sussing out the parks of cities when I travel, and Warsaw was no different. That afternoon, I finally crossed the river to explore Praga, an eye-opening and almost disillusioning experience.
Looking like a Polish Empire State Building, the Palace of Science and Culture can be seen from all across Warsaw. Commissioned by Stalin and inspired by American art-deco styles, the palace also has Polish features incorporated into the building work.
The palace wasn’t open when I arrived, so I admired it from the ground instead. While to me it looked like an impressive, Polish version Empire State Building, it’s not the most popular building in Warsaw due to its history. Since Stalin’s death many traces of him have been removed.
There are bars and museums inside, as well as an observation deck on the 30th floor. As the highest view over Warsaw, it must have a pretty impressive view of the city. Rumour has it you can see for 30 miles!
Though it initially seemed like a normal city park, Łazienki Park was one of the strangest parks I’ve experienced. It’s made up of a variety of contrasting sections, which blend into each other without explanation. One moment I was at a palace in the middle of a lake, the next I was passing a Chinese pagoda, before arriving at a Roman amphitheatre!
Moreover, despite the warm and sunny day, Łazienki Park wasn’t busy in the slightest. I roamed from neat flower gardens to faux-Greek temples, barely seeing another person. It made for one of the most interesting and bizarre parks I’ve ever explored on my travels!
On the Vistula’s east bank, the Praga district is so different from Warsaw Old Town. I’ve seen it described as “gritty”, “dangerous” and “up-and-coming” interchangeably, but all reports said it wasn’t an area I should miss when visiting Warsaw. There’s a lot to explore on the east side of the river; for example: St Florian’s Cathedral, the Neon Museum, famous works of street art, and Warsaw Zoo.
Not wanting to take any chances, and also not knowing where to begin, I joined a free walking tour of Praga. (Head to All About RosaLilla for a DIY walking tour of the district.) After praising the beauty and resilience of Warsaw Old Town so much, I was surprised by Praga’s history.
It turns out that the reason the Old Town feels so safe and well kept is the real reason for Praga’s poor reputation. After WWII, all effort was put into restoring the Old Town, while all the convicts were sent across the river to live in Praga. The district was subsequently ignored, with the city removing synagogues and letting centuries-old buildings fall into disrepair. When I heard this story, I felt a bit guilty about raving so much about the beauty of the Old Town.
During my three days in Warsaw, I realised it was a city of contradictions. It is centuries old and yet brand new. It’s peaceful and safe, but due to a shady past. It was entirely destroyed, yet now it is thriving!
The city has not only been rebuilt, it has been transformed into a charming replica of its ancient self. And yet, despite its modernity, there’re hundreds of years of history lurking in the reconstructed buildings. Either side of the Vistula tells a different story, but the common theme is overcoming hardship: the Phoenix City indeed.
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